Sept. 1, 2010

Diarrhea Problems in Pugs
(and other dogs)

Having over 20 years of pug rescue under my belt, I'd like to share a common condition that I've had to deal with multiple times over the years.

When we rescued pugs from the pound, they frequently came in to foster homes with diarrhea or very soft stools because they had their diets changed from whatever their former owners had fed them, to whatever the pound fed them. Some cases were very severe to the point I'd be on the phone with our wonderful (and very smart) veterinarian, Dr. Lemire (who has since moved to the New England area). His advice was always the same:

1. Fast the pug for 24 hours, which will allow him or her to completely empty out their system. Do keep fresh water available for them at all times. Diarrhea can dehydrate their bodies and in severe cases you will want to get some plain Pediolyte water (for kids) from the drugstore and add to their water.

2. After the 24-hour mark, feed them small amounts of cooked white rice and boiled chicken (use a paper towel to pat all fat off the chicken after boiling ), two or three times a day. After a few days, if their digestive tract has settled down, begin to add a little of their regular food back in to their diet, and in about 5 days they should be back to normal.

3. If diarrhea persists despite the above protocol, a visit to the vet is definitely in order.

Now, as we all know, fasting a pug for 24 hours is definitely not easy, but I discovered a way to do it that is pretty painless for them: when meal-time is approaching and they are bugging you to feed them, distract them completely by either taking them for a walk or for a ride - two of their biggest joys in life! When you return, do not go near the kitchen and act like everything is normal as usual. Most, if not all of the time, the pugs will settle down and take a nap. This is when YOU can sneak into the kitchen and fix yourself something to eat without those hungry brown eyes watching your every move.

If you have a large family that eats regular meals, you will have to contain your pugs in a room away from the kitchen, and issue strict orders that no one is to give the pugs any morsels or treats while they are doing their fast (including a few days afterward).

When our rescue pugs returned to normal, we began introducing our own real food diet, Happy & Healthy All-Natural Pet Food (whose name has since been changed to California Gold Pet Food) which consists of whole grains and dehydrated vegetables. We add either meat from a boiled chicken breast, or ground turkey. The oats formula (No-Cook) does not have to be cooked and makes a 5-7 day supply of food. The rice formula (Cook) gets cooked and makes a 5-day supply of food for 2 pugs. Our pugs were gloriously healthy, passed their blood panel checkups with flying colors, had coats as soft as silk, their allergies almost always cleared up along with skin problems, and in short order they were ready to be adopted out to their new, forever homes (letting go of them was often very heart-breaking for those of us who fostered and rehabilitated them both physically and mentally). Under no circumstances did we EVER feed our pugs kibble, which is an unnatural food source no matter how much the commercials and packaging would have you believe otherwise.

Take good care of your pugs. In the overall scheme of things they are with us for such a short time, and when they go (usually anywhere from 13-15 years if they are well taken care of and on a healthy, real-food diet, depending on their genes, of course), they leave us behind with huge holes in our hearts that can often take years to heal.

Hugs to your pugs -- Ginger, Editor

We have been contacted by Last Day Dog Rescue, a nonprofit group who writes: Last Day Dog Rescue is more than just a name! Most of the dogs coming into our rescue were saved from high-kill animal shelters or being sold for research. It's the situation all our dogs were faced with. Now these wonderful dogs get another chance at life.

LDDR is requesting donations of any kind for our upcoming bowling for puppies outing, on Saturday, November 6th, 2010. The three game puppy bowl-a-thon is a fundraiser being held at Sunnybrook Lanes in Sterling Heights, MI. We are asking for donations for a raffle to raise money for the charity. Established in 2006, we have rescued appropriately 2500 dog and cats. Your donations will help raise funds for our non-profit organization to continue rescuing, feeding and providing medical care to these special animals. The donation you are able to provide, will be presented and acknowledge.
Last Day Dog Rescue is a 501 ( c) (3) 20-8736110.

We are going to send them a donation, and you can, too! Any amount will help these animals in need. Just go to their website: www.lastdaydogrescue.org - scroll down the page and click on the PUG that says Donate Here. Afterwards, you can cast a vote for this group to help them get grants through www.theanimalrescuesite.htm, a partner of www.petfinder.com (a great site that will help you find adult dogs & cats by breed or mixed, in your area).

July 24, 2007

HEAT ALERT!
What do you do if you see someone walking their pug in the heat, or leaving their pug in the car "for just a minute" in the heat, or leaving them locked in their kennel or room in an unairconditioned house, or worse, in a run in the hot backyard?

You speak up and save that pug's life, that's what you do! That pug's life may well depend on YOU!

It amazes me that people can be so clueless with these fragile little dogs with smushed-in faces. ALL dogs are susceptible to heat stroke under the above conditions. But pugs, bulldogs, and pekingese in particular can succumb very quickly right before your very eyes if left in a hot situation for more than a few minutes - much less hours!

Owners may think just because THEY can take the heat, it must be okay for their dogs, but the huge difference is THEY are not wearing fur coats like their dogs are in that heat.

So, speak up! Don't be afraid to educate people about their precious pets. Every summer these breeds die in situations where the owners should have known better.

Be summer-safe:

1. If you must take your dogs somewhere in the car, run the A/C full blast, and have drinking-water available for them at all times.

2. Never EVER leave them in the car in the heat - it only takes minutes for them to be gone FOREVER.

3. Do not take your pets to ANY events in the summer, including breed parties, parades, BBQs, beaches, outdoor concerts, etc.

4. Do not run "quick" errands in your car with your pet in the heat.

5. Run the A/C in your house or the room your pug is in when you are not home. If you do not have whole house A/C get a window unit (less than $100 at any Home Depot or similar store).

6. If you see a pug over-heated, get cold water on their tummies fast! They cool off thru their tummies, which is why you will see hot pugs lying on tiles, panting. Offer them water to drink, and sprinkle cool water over their backs and get them out of the heat ASAP.

The life you save will be a pug who otherwise may perish!

Thank you! --Ginger, Editor

Posted July 5th, 2010
This alert is brought to you by Tina Seri, of Pugs 'n Pals Rescue, www.pugdogrescue.com

There is a massive recall of pet products from major companies, and many of these may still be on shelves. Check the list to make sure you don't buy them, or if you already have, don't give them to your cat or dog.

Please pass this around to anyone you know who owns an animal!

Manufacturers/include Petco, Doctors Foster and Smith, PR, DDS, Excel, Pro Pet, etc.

List includes everything from ear powder to glucosamine supps. Here is the FDA link. http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm217999.htm

Are "annual" vaccinations really needed? As the former editor of the Pug Press quarterly newsletter that had a 13-year run before being sold, I spoke out against "annual vaccinations" at every opportunity. Please do your own research and do right by your pet. We don't get annual vaccinations, or "every 3-years vaccinations" -- why should they?

Here is an informative article on the subject published on Marina Zaccharia's website, www.NaturalRearing.com. In addition to a plethora of informative health-related articles on her website, Marina sells many natural remedies and is available to discuss her products with her customers. A business woman of integrity, I highly recommend her products! (This article is being reprinted from her site with her permission.) --Ginger, Editor

New Vaccination Protocol

As suggested by Dr. Dodd for years, the revised Vaccination Protocol for ALL 27 vet schools will apparently be changing their programs.

This is welcome news and should be taken with you to your vet should you need reinforcement against over-vaccination. - Marina Zacharias

VACCINATION NEWSFLASH
[CIMDA support] Re: J Dodd's vaccine protocol

I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs and cats.

Some of this information will present an ethical & economic challenge to vets, and there will be skeptics. Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs. those concerned about potential side effects.

Politics, traditions, or the doctor's economic well-being should not be a factor in medical decision.

NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY:
Dog and cat immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (ie: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not "boosted" nor are more memory cells induced.

Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anaemia. There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines.

Puppies receive antibodies through their mothers' milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced.

Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first highly effective vaccine.

Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the immune system.

A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age.

Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 1 year 4 mo) will provide lifetime immunity.

For more information on this subject search "vaccine controversy" on the Internet.

Editor's Note: Many vets are compromising and using an every 3-year protocol for vaccinations, but in my humble opinion, that is because of loss of income concerns, not for the safety of your pet. What's worse are the vets who continue the "annual vaccination" protocol when they know better. Do your own research and make up your own mind. Remember that humans do not get annual vaccinations or every 3-year vaccinations - so why do we do this to our pets? Because they cannot speak up for themselves. Plain and simple. Am I anti-vet? No. If your pet is sick or injured, that's where you take him or her, no question. Where I part company is their vaccine protocols, their pushing of kibble dog food that they also sell even though they did not study more than a 1-week course on nutrition in vet school and that did not include real food diets, and the blinders they wear to any remedies but pharmaceutical products, which we also have to buy from them. Would we tolerate this in our own doctors? No, and for good reason! - Ginger

RATTLESNAKE SEASON IS HERE!
Some urgent and conflicting news is out there, so be extremely careful and well-informed on this important subject.

Rattlesnake fear
One of the most feared, nondomesticated animals for many of us is the rattlesnake. The reasons vary from its silent, sinuous movement, its flickering tongue, to the rattling sound. But for pet owners we should fear it because of its poisonous, sometimes fatal bite. Small pets are particularly vulnerable.

The season and geographical area
The rough range of the yearly appearance of the rattlesnake is from March to October. As the temperature increases, they become more active.

Their territory is mostly in the lower United States and Mexico, but some species are widespread in North America including the Canadian Western Provinces.

The most dangerous poisonous snake, because of its bite and the highest number of fatalities from its venom, is the Western Diamond Back. It inhabits mountains, the seacoast, inland plains, desert areas—just about everywhere, so you may not be immune to its visit.

Perhaps we could try to avoid the snake all together.

Make your yard snake-proof
1) Cut the lawn down to where you can see all objects in the grass, and trim any grassy bush areas.

2) Eliminate (very carefully) piles of wood or leaves.

3) Eliminate anything they can nest/hide in.

4) Eliminate their food: rodents.

5) Keep doors closed and install screen doors to guard against sudden unwanted entry when you open an exterior door.

6) Patch cracks, holes, etc., any unnecessary foundation and ventilation holes.

7) Eliminate wild bird feeders (if you are willing to, as they attract rodents and some snakes eat birds as well). This does not apply to hummingbird feeders.

Any other snake-proofing tricks?
If you are wondering if there’s anything else you can do to make your yard snake-proof, of special note are the so-called snake-repellant formulas. The only thing we will point out is that some animal repellants use Naphthalene, also used in mothballs, which has been reported to cause severe illness to pets and creatures, let alone to humans. Although most of the popular snake repellants claim they are pet friendly, they almost all use Naphthalene, which, according to Wikipedia:

"Exposure to large amounts of naphthalene may damage or destroy red blood cells. Humans, particularly children, have developed this condition, known as hemolytic anemia, after ingesting mothballs or deodorant blocks containing naphthalene. Symptoms include fatigue, lack of appetite, restlessness, and pale skin. Exposure to large amounts of naphthalene may cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, blood in the urine, and jaundice (yellow coloration of the skin).

"When the U.S. National Toxicology Program exposed male and female rats and mice to naphthalene vapors on weekdays for two years, male and female rats exhibited evidence of carcinogenic activity based on increased incidences of adenoma and neuroblastoma of the nose, female mice exhibited some evidence of carcinogenic activity based on increased incidences of alveolar and bronchiolar adenomas of the lung, and male mice exhibited no evidence of carcinogenic activity.

"The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies naphthalene as possibly carcinogenic to humans and animals [Group 2B]. The IARC also points out that acute exposure causes cataracts in humans, rats, rabbits, and mice; and that hemolytic anemia, described above, can occur in children and infants after oral or inhalation exposure or after maternal exposure during pregnancy."

There is at least one manufacturer who claims to use a naphthalene-free formula to repel snakes, but we do not know what's in it, or whether or not it is effective. It is up to you to do the research if this is the way you want to go, but be super-informed. Ask your vet/health professional and do an Internet search. As always, do not put anything in your home or yard that may cause you or your pet any harm.

Possible Outside encounters

Check the immediate area (porch or other) before you fully open the door. We have heard of many residents seeing a snake soaking up the heat from their concrete porch. If you hike, walk your pet on a short leash in the center of a wide path. Snakes hide in tall grasses and near or under rocks--don’t let your pet sniff/wander there. For pet owners, wear boots or at least closed-toe shoes/sneakers with heavy, yet loose jeans.

If you see a snake, back away! Do not threaten it or try to scare it, just walk away in a different direction and avoid this area in the future.

If your dog (or cat) is bitten:

a) Try to remember the description of the snake as it will help the medical staff with the anti-venom.

b) Be calm so you do not excite your pet as venom surges with movement and/or the release of adrenalin. Restrict your pet's movement. (Immobilize the limb if bitten there.)

c) Walk the dog slowly to the car, or carry it if at all possible.

d) Some bites really hurt the animal, so attempting to touch the wound is not advised--a makeshift muzzle may be necessary to avoid being bitten by the dog.

e) Do not cut the bite area to aspirate the venom.

f) Do not apply ice to the area.

g) Drive (safely) to the nearest pet emergency clinic/hospital immediately!

Bite Signs
You may see one, two, or several small puncture wounds, bleeding and bruising immediately, and extremely painful swelling at the site of the bite. The more severe signs may take up to several hours to appear and include shock, lethargy and weakness, muscle tremors, nausea, vomiting, and other signs including depressed respiration.

According to Dr. Mike Richards, VMD, in an article at peteducation.com: “If there’s any question the pet has been bitten, then it wasn’t bitten.” In other words, the symptoms are marked, especially the bite from a Copperhead species. However, it’s best to take preventative measures and drive to the nearest animal emergency clinic to get it checked out if you think a bite is at all possible.

Effective Treatment
Now, for the good news (whew!). A study shows if your pet is treated promptly by a veterinarian with Antivenin (a product consisting of antibodies made by horses), intravenous fluids, and other procedures, the mortality rate is less than 1%. The untreated patients’ mortality rate depends on many factors: the movement of the pet after the bite, the species of snake, and much more. However, that rate could be as high as 35%. So, warning: the antivenom shot is very expensive, anywhere from $100-$200 a vial to $700 for a more recent pure sheep-origin vial (a large dog requires several vials). Yet, and that is a big yet, it will probably save the dog’s life.

Vaccine Heads Up! Conflicting Reports
Because a vaccine exists and sounds like another option in the fight against the venom, it's worth mentioning here. There is a debate going on (vets and dog owners on both sides), so be very careful and be very informed! Upon researching this, and I am very glad I did, I read about dogs who had no adverse reactions to the vaccine, but I also read that, upon being bitten, the dogs still required very special urgent care and there was no evidence that the initial vaccine helped the dog. In addition, I read many sad letters where the dogs (large and small) suffered tremendously and many times fatally from reaction to the vaccine. Yet, I still run across websites of veterinarians encouraging/advertising the shot without even a mention of adverse reactions! If that isn’t enough information for you to make a judgment call then here’s one more bit: UC Davis (one of the most prestigious schools for veterinarians) wrote this: “Based on existing evidence, the UC Davis VMTH does not currently recommend routine vaccination of dogs for rattlesnake envenomation, and the vaccine is not stocked by our pharmacy.”

In Summary
Be informed: The rattlesnake is not the only poisonous snake around.
There are several other species of dangerous snakes and many more snakes that are not harmful. Read up about snakes in your area at the library or online, and learn to identify which snakes are dangerous (poisonous) and which are not. The life you save could well be your own pet's.

Our thanks to the following sources: worsleyschool.net, vetinfo.com, stretcher.com, peteducation.com, encyclopedia.com and cbs8.com, covemountainkennels.com/category/rattlesnakes/
www.marvistavet.com/
html/body_rattlesnake_bites_in_californi.html and wikipedia.org .

The information in this article is strictly a generalization on this topic and is not to be construed as all the necessary and full information there is. Pugzoo.com does not give medical advice. If you have questions related to this article please consult with your pet's health professional.